|
|
| Plants,
Critters & Chemicals |
Why
Does My Pond Need Plants and Fish?
Plants and fish create a balanced ecosystem with interaction between the
plants and fish that ensure proper water conditions and reduces insects,
since the fish eat the larvae and plants reduce the formation of algae.
Fish and plants contribute to the successful nitrogen cycle. As the waste
products are released into the water, they are converted to ammonia and
then to nitrites and nitrates by nitrifying bacteria. Nitrates are a food
or fertilizer for plants and algae. As they are absorbed, plants and algae
become a valuable food source for fish, thus completing the cycle. This
ongoing biological cycle insures healthy pond life. A second way fish
and plants complement each other is through the process of photosynthesis.
Fish require oxygen for their existence and they release carbon dioxide.
Plants in turn, require carbon dioxide and emit oxygen. During sunlight,
plants will consume the carbon dioxide released by fish and in turn emit
oxygen required by fish.
Tropical Water Lilies
by Rich Sacher, Owner, American Aquatic Gardens, New Orleans,
La
(Zone 9 Directions)
Tropical water lilies are very easy to grow and their blooming season
in New Orleans is from May 1st until a killing frost in December. They
come in a wide variety of colors, including some varieties which bloom
at night. A well-grown plant will have several flowers open every day
of its eight month blooming season, and each flower lasts three days.
- Sunlight
Water lilies must have a minimum of five hours of direct sunlight in
order to bloom heavily; the more sun, the better.
-
Water
Water lilies requre a minimum of six inches of water over the soil
level in the pot; larger lilies can take 8 to 10 inches depth of water.
Water does not have to be circulated and quiet fountains will not
harm the waterlilies.
-
Soil
Any heavy garden soil is suitable, but no peat moss, bark or other
floating materials should be used.
-
Fish
If you have fish in your pond, cover the soil of your waterlily pot
with heavy pieces of broken slate, sand or pea gravel so fish cannot
dig up the plants.
-
Algae
Green water is often a problem in full sun and well fertilized plants;
do not use chemicals to control the algae--it will kill your lilies.
Instead, encourage a healthy growth of submerged plants like anacharis
one bunch per square foot of surface area, which will help starve
out the algae. Some floating hyacinths or water lettuce will also
help, but watch they do not get out of control.
-
Chores
To keep the pond looking good, remove yellowing leaves and spent flowers
every week. If an individual lily spreads too much, you can remove
the outer ring of leaves to reduce the overall size of the plant without
affecting flowering. If aphids appear, hose them into the water each
morning to provide food for your fish. Caterpillars can be picked
off by hand.
-
Treating
for Aphid Infestation
The following technique can be used to treat water lilies for aphid
infestation without harm to your fish. Aphids and many other garden
pests can be easily controlled with an inexpensive, homemade insecticide--according
to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
This
recipe was developed after entomologists at the Agriculture Research
Center in Phoenix, Arizona, discovered that a spray of soybean oil
protected cotton from aphids and whiteflies. Home gardeners should
mix one tablespoon of dishwashing detergent with one cup of cooking
oil. When pests strike, mix one to two and one half teaspoons of the
detergent oil mix with one cup of water. The detergent causes the
oil to emulsify in the water. It can be sprayed on the water lilies
every ten days. Besides aphids, the mixture works against whiteflies
and spider mites. It has been successfully tested on eggplants, carrots,
lettuce, celery, watermelon, peppers and cucumbers. It tends to burn
the leaves of squash, cauliflower and red cabbage.
-
Over-wintering
Tropical Water Lilies
Tropical water lilies are perennial by nature, and they will go dormant
as the weather becomes cold and days grow shorter. In New Orleans,
they will often bloom until mid to late December, at which time the
plants are already becoming smaller and slow growing.
You
should stop fertilizing the lilies is mid October, because by starving
the plants at the end of the season, they are more likely to form
some small, very hard and durable tubers which survive the dormant
period much better than the large fleshy root of the main plant.
These small tubers can be broken off from the parent plant and rinsed
clean of soil; they should be stored in damp sand for the winter at
a temperature of 50 to 55 degrees. These tubers can be planted out
in the pond in mid-April, when they will begin to sprout new leaves
by the middle of May. (Plant them in rich or fertilized soil, one
half inch below the soil surface, and place them in a shallow area
of the pond with 2 to 4 inches of water over the pot.)
If you have a greenhouse, you should move your waterlily to a small
tub or temporary pond inside. In this case, do not disturb the roots;
allow the plant to continue growing until it becomes dormant and leave
it in the pond until new leaves come up again the spring. Once the
plant is growing again, it can be divided if necessary and repotted
in fresh solid for the growing season. This method almost always ensures
the survival of the plant if the temperature never goes below 55 degrees
in your greenhouse.
Those
persons who are fortunate enough to have a large natural pond will
find that just leaving the lily in the pond through the winter is
the best method; this is especially true if the pond is fed by artesian
wells, where the water temperature stays above 50 degrees no matter
how cold the winter nights might be. This allows the plant to go dormant,
but the temperature is warm enough to prevent damage to the tubers.
If the
water temperature of your pond goes below 45 degrees for a number
of days during the winter, then you will need to move the plant or
tubers indoors for the dormant season, because temperatures below
50 degrees may result in the death of the tubers.
Since
winters in New Orleans are so unpredictable, I would guess that most
people would have about a 50 percent success rate if they just let
their lilies in their ponds through the winter. The determining factor
is temperature; how cold does it get and how long does it stay cold.
So if
you enjoy a challenge, try one of these methods of over-wintering
your lilies. Or, if you want to be more laid back about it, you can
do nothing at all and take a chance on Mother Nature. You should win
about half the time.
 |
|
|
 |